Hjem

About the Author xvii Preface xix About the Companion Website xxi 1 Introduction 1
1.1 Scope of Coastal Engineering 1
1.2 Outline of Book 1
1.3 Example Projects 3
1.3.1 Coastal Flooding 3
1.3.2 Coastal Structure Design 4
1.3.3 Sediment Transport 4
1.3.4 Marina Design 6
1.4 Evolution of Coastal Engineering and Future Trends 6 2 Regular Waves 9
2.1 Introduction 9
2.2 Boundary Value Problem 10
2.2.1 Assumptions 11
2.2.2 Equations of Motion 11
2.2.3 Boundary Conditions 11
2.2.4 Governing Equations 12
2.3 Linear Wave Theory 13
2.3.1 Governing Equations 13
2.3.2 Solution for Flow Field 14
2.3.3 Depth Parameter 15
2.3.4 Description of Results 16
2.3.5 Linear Dispersion Relation 17
2.4 Wave Energy and Momentum 20
2.5 Waves with a Current 21
2.5.1 Fixed and Moving Reference Frames 22
2.5.2 Solution for Flow Field 22
2.5.3 Dispersion Relation 23
2.6 Extensions to Linear Wave Theory 24
2.6.1 Waves Propagating at An Angle to the X Axis 24
2.6.2 Reference Frame Moving with the Waves 25
2.6.3 Stream Function Representation 26
2.6.4 Complex Representation 26
2.7 Nonlinear Wave Theories 27
2.7.1 Stokes Wave Theories 27
2.7.2 Cnoidal Wave Theories 28
2.7.3 Solitary Wave Theories 28
2.7.4 Numerical Wave Theories 29 Problems 30 3 Wave Transformations 31
3.1 Wave Shoaling 31
3.1.1 Assumptions 32
3.1.2 Shoaling Relations 32
3.2 Wave Refraction 33
3.2.1 Refraction Relations 33
3.2.2 Numerical Modeling of Shoaling and Refraction 36
3.3 Wave Diffraction 39
3.3.1 Boundary Value Problem 39
3.3.2 Example Solutions 41
3.3.3 Straight Semi-Infinite Breakwater - Closed-Form Solution 41
3.3.4 Straight Semi-Infinite Breakwater - Diffraction Diagrams 43
3.3.5 Guidelines and Approximations on the Use of Diffraction Diagrams 43
3.4 Standing Waves 46
3.4.1 Standing Waves at a Wall 46
3.4.2 Standing Waves in a Basin 47
3.5 Wave Reflection 49
3.5.1 Normal Reflection 49
3.5.2 Oblique Reflection 50
3.6 Wave Transmission 51
3.7 Wave Attenuation 52
3.7.1 Forms of Energy Dissipation 52
3.7.2 Friction Factor 53
3.7.3 Attenuation Rate 54
3.8 Waves of Maximum Height 54
3.9 Breaking Waves 55
3.9.1 Forms of Wave Breaking 56
3.9.2 Breaking Wave Height and Depth 56
3.10 Wave Runup 58
3.11 Numerical Models 60
3.11.1 Overview 60
3.11.2 Models Based on the Mild-Slope Equation 60
3.11.3 Models Based on Boussinesq-Type Equations 62 Problems 63 4 Random Waves 65
4.1 Introduction 65
4.2 Probability Distribution of Wave Heights 66
4.3 Wave Spectra 69
4.3.1 One-Dimensional Spectra 69
4.3.2 Transformation of Wave Spectra 70
4.3.3 Directional Wave Spectra 73
4.3.4 Time-Frequency Domain Conversions 75
4.4 Long-Term Variability of Storms 77
4.5 Extreme Value Analysis 77
4.5.1 Overview 77
4.5.2 Exceedance Probabilities 78
4.5.3 Distribution Selection and Fit 78
4.5.4 Return Period and Annual Exceedance Probability 80
4.5.5 Encounter Probability 80
4.6 EVA Alternatives and Extensions 82
4.6.1 Annual Maxima 82
4.6.2 Lower Return Periods 83
4.6.3 Seasonal Conditions 83
4.6.4 Confidence Bands 83
4.7 Annual Wave Conditions 83
4.7.1 Wave Scatter Diagram 83
4.7.2 Long-Term Distribution of Individual Wave Heights 84
4.7.3 Application to Hours Per Year 85
4.7.4 Application to Fatigue Calculations 85 Problems 86 5 Winds 89
5.1 Introduction 89
5.2 Wind Data 89
5.3 Annual Wind Conditions 90
5.4 Design Wind Speeds 91
5.5 Wind Speed Correction Factors 93
5.5.1 Averaging Period 93
5.5.2 Elevation 93
5.5.3 Overland to Overwater Conversion 94
5.5.4 Atmospheric Stability 94
5.6 Hurricanes 95
5.6.1 Tropical Cyclone Categories 95
5.6.2 Saffir-Simpson Scale 96
5.6.3 Wind and Pressure Fields 96
5.6.4 Hurricane Tracks 97 Problems 99 6 Wave Predictions 101
6.1 Introduction 101
6.1.1 General Approaches 101
6.1.2 Wave Generation by Wind 102
6.2 Wave Hindcasting - Simplified Approach 103
6.3 Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting - Numerical Models 107
6.3.1 Spectral Wave Models 107
6.3.2 Extension to Intermediate and Shallow Depths 108
6.3.3 Regional and Global Models 108
6.3.4 Operational Forecasting 110
6.4 Ship Waves 110
6.5 Laboratory-Generated Waves 112
6.5.1 Overview 112
6.5.2 Wavemaker Theory 112 Problems 114 7 Long Waves, Water Levels, and Currents 115
7.1 Long Wave Theories 115
7.1.1 Linearized Long Wave Theory 115
7.1.2 Nonlinear Long Wave Theories 116
7.2 Tides 117
7.2.1 Introduction and Historical Development 117
7.2.2 Glossary 118
7.2.3 Prediction of Tide Levels 119
7.2.4 Vertical Datums 120
7.2.5 Tidal and Bathymetric Data 120
7.2.6 Tidal Bores 121
7.3 Tsunamis 122
7.3.1 Introduction and Examples 122
7.3.2 Tsunami Modeling 125
7.3.3 Tsunami Runup Predictions 126
7.3.4 Tsunami Warning Systems and Emergency Management 127
7.3.5 Landslide-Generated Waves 127
7.4 Long Wave Oscillations 127
7.5 Storm Surge 128
7.5.1 Regional and Local Storm Surge 129
7.5.2 Wind Setup 130
7.5.3 Pressure Setup 132
7.5.4 Long-Term Fluctuations 132
7.5.5 Features of Hurricane Storm Surge 133
7.5.6 Storm Surge Modeling 134
7.6 Wave Setup 134
7.7 Sea Level Rise 136
7.7.1 Sea Level Rise Components 136
7.7.2 Sea Level Rise Measurements 136
7.7.3 Land Uplift/Subsidence 136
7.7.4 Relative Sea Level Rise Projections 137
7.8 Climate Change Impacts 138
7.8.1 Background 138
7.8.2 Arctic Sea Ice Cover 139
7.8.3 Hurricanes 139
7.8.4 Storm Surge and Extreme Waves 140
7.8.5 Implications for Coastal Engineering Practice 140
7.9 Coastal Flood Levels 140
7.9.1 Flood Construction Level 141
7.9.1.1 Methodology 141
7.9.1.2 Tide Level and Storm Surge 142
7.9.1.3 Relative Sea Level Rise 142
7.9.1.4 Wave Runup 142
7.9.2 Base Flood and Design Flood Elevations 143
7.9.3 Dike Crest Elevation 143
7.9.4 Tsunami Flood Level 143
7.9.5 Probability of Coastal Flooding 144
7.9.6 Consequences of Coastal Flooding 145
7.10 Coastal Currents 147 Problems 148 8 Coastal Structures 151
8.1 Introduction 151
8.1.1 Categories of Structure 151
8.2 Seawalls 153
8.2.1 Linear Wave Theory 153
8.2.2 Miche-Rundgren and Sainflou Methods 154
8.2.3 FEMA Formulation for Plunging Breakers 156
8.2.4 Goda Formulation 156
8.2.5 Related Impermeable Structures 158
8.3 Rubble-Mound Structures 159
8.3.1 Predictions of Armor Stability 161
8.3.1.1 Hudson Equation 161
8.3.1.2 Van der Meer Equations 162
8.3.1.3 Damage Progression 162
8.3.2 Alternate Rubble-Mound Configurations 164
8.3.3 Wave Runup and Overtopping 164
8.3.3.1 Wave Runup 164
8.3.3.2 Wave Overtopping 165
8.4 Slender Structures 165
8.4.1 Development of Morison Equation 166
8.4.2 Morison Equation for a Sinusoidal Flow 167
8.4.3 Application to Pipelines and Piles 169
8.4.4 Drag and Inertia Coefficients 172
8.4.5 Lift Force 172
8.4.6 Extensions to the Morison Equation 174
8.5 Large Structures 176
8.5.1 Introduction 176
8.5.2 Vertical Circular Cylinder 176
8.5.3 Other Configurations 179
8.6 Floating Structures 180
8.6.1 Introduction 180
8.6.2 Recap of a Single-Degree-of-Freedom System 180
8.6.3 Added Mass 182
8.6.4 Hydrodynamic Analysis 183
8.6.5 Random Waves 185
8.7 Wave Impact Forces 185
8.8 Floating Breakwaters and Bridges 186
8.8.1 Transmission Coefficient 187
8.8.2 Hydrodynamic Analysis 189
8.8.3 Mooring System Analysis 190
8.8.3.1 Static Mooring Analysis 191
8.8.3.2 Dynamic Mooring Analysis 192
8.9 Other Loads 193
8.9.1 Foundation Loads and Stability 193
8.9.2 Earthquake Loads 193
8.9.3 Vessel Impact, Ice Impact, and Debris Loads 194
8.9.4 Wind Loads 195
8.10 Renewable Energy Infrastructure 195
8.10.1 Background and Criteria 195
8.10.2 Wind Energy 196
8.10.3 Wave Energy 196
8.10.4 Tidal Energy 197
8.10.5 Current Turbines 197
8.10.6 Ocean Thermal Energy Conversion 198 Problems 198 9 Coastal Processes 201
9.1 Introduction 201
9.2 Coastal Forms 201
9.3 Sediment Properties 205
9.3.1 Sediment Size 205
9.3.2 Cohesive Sediments 206
9.3.3 Sediment Composition and Density 206
9.3.4 Porosity and Bulk Density 206
9.3.5 Fall Velocity 207
9.4 Threshold of Sediment Motion 208
9.4.1 Unidirectional Flow 208
9.4.2 Waves 210
9.5 Beach Characteristics 212
9.6 Sediment Transport Processes 213
9.6.1 Onshore-Offshore Transport 214
9.6.2 Longshore Transport 215
9.6.3 Estimates of Longshore Transport 216
9.6.4 Sediment Sources and Sinks 217
9.6.5 Shoreline Evolution Models 218
9.6.6 Transport of Cohesive Sediments 220